Sitting in a century-old restaurant in Shanghai, Hu Jianyuan orders a dish that was once the epitome of European luxury: cherry foie gras. Eight glistening slices, each a perfect 12 grams, arrive at his table — priced at 198 yuan ($29). Hu smiles as the delicate, buttery flavor explodes in his mouth. Hu was no ordinary diner; he has played a large role in developing the delicacy. The restaurant is just one of his foie gras-producing company's many clients.
Back in Huoqiu county in Lu'an, a city in East China's Anhui province, Hu's story began in fields filled with the honking of Landes geese. Here, far from the gilded dining rooms of Shanghai, lies the unlikely epicenter of China's foie gras revolution.
Huoqiu raises 5 million Landes geese and produces more than 5,000 metric tons of the luxury food product annually — accounting for more than a third of the entire nation's output.
In Hefei, the provincial capital, the food scene is delicious but down-to-earth. For local resident Zhang Wanjing, foie gras is now a casual indulgence.
In March, Zhang found herself savoring a foie gras sushi roll at a Japanese restaurant, at just 18 yuan apiece. "The menu didn't say where it came from, but I could take a pretty good guess," she said with a knowing smile. "It's probably from Huoqiu."
And in Huoqiu, foie gras is affordable food, enjoyed stir-fried, pan-fried or even in hotpot.
On Hefei's Oufengjie — the "European-style street" brimming with eateries serving international cuisine — visitors can now find at least four restaurants serving foie gras. But like truffles and caviar, foie gras, originating from the Landes department in France, was once a rare luxury.
Today, the Landes goose, world-renowned and much-sought-after for foie gras, is widely bred in countries like Hungary and China.
Hu has been part of this quiet culinary revolution for over 20 years. In 2003, he was one of the first in Huoqiu to gamble on Landes geese.
Initially, he faced challenges selling fresh foie gras in upscale markets and hotels in cities such as Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, the capital of Guangdong province, often encountering skepticism.
"I said it was from Huoqiu, but they hadn't even heard of the place and were hesitant to use it. That setback taught me that without a brand, even the best products wouldn't gain trust," said Hu.
In 2006, he registered his Longxiang brand, which went on to become a well-known trademark in China, and his company is now the largest among over 140 foie gras producers in Huoqiu.
The turning point came when a foreign chef at a high-end Hefei restaurant simply poked the liver with his finger, inspected the texture, and declared it equal to French imports — only fresher and far less costly. An instant partnership was born.
The cherry foie gras that Hu consumed in Shanghai, is sold from his factory at just 5 yuan apiece. But in high-end restaurants, the price varies, at between 20 and 30 yuan apiece.
Since 2013, Hu has continuously developed new products, now numbering more than 30, turning foie gras into ready-to-eat specialty snacks.
"If you're a seasoned foie gras enthusiast, visiting China, and more specifically Anhui, would be a great idea," said Hu.
Liu Qinqin contributed to this story.
ZHU LIXIN in Lu'an, Anhui
