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Viral Hunan duck delicacy permeates the Strait

By LI MUYUN and HE CHUN in Changsha | CHINA DAILY | Updated: 2026-04-17 09:10

A visitor samples the delicacy at the third Sauce-braised Duck Festival in Liling, Hunan province, in October 2025. [Photo provided to China Daily]

"Have you ever saved a fox in the snow?" A line from an AI-generated short film has become an internet sensation across the Taiwan Strait, drawing attention to a traditional delicacy — jiangbanya, or sauce-braised duck.

In Saving the Fox in the Snow, a woodcutter rescues a fox and leaves behind a sauce-braised duck as food. Years later, a mysterious woman appears at his door. Viewers anticipating a classic tale of a fox repaying kindness are instead met with an unexpected twist: "I am not the fox. I am the duck. I am here for revenge."

The absurd plot twist quickly went viral on Chinese short video platforms, inspiring numerous fan-created remakes on social media. Some celebrities in Taiwan also joined the trend. As the videos spread, netizens in Taiwan began asking a different question: "Where can I buy this duck?"

On April 8, Zhu Fenglian, spokeswoman for the State Council Taiwan Affairs Office, addressed the question at a regular news conference, inviting Taiwan residents to visit Hunan province, a major origin base of the dish.

"We welcome Taiwan compatriots to Hunan to taste sauce-braised duck from cities such as Changde, Chenzhou and Zhuzhou, each with its own distinctive flavor," Zhu said.

On Thursday, the 2026 cross-Strait youth exchange and development conference opened in Changsha, the provincial capital, bringing nearly 400 guests from Taiwan. Sauce-braised duck was served as a special gift to attendees.

Hunan's sauce-braised duck is made through marinating, air-drying and roasting with dozens of spices. Over centuries, the dish has developed diverse regional flavors and developed into a sizable industry.

Changde is believed to have the longest history of producing the dish, with local accounts tracing its origins to the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476 BC). In 2013, Changde sauce-braised duck was recognized as a national geographical indication product. The preparation involves 15 steps and more than 30 spices, following methods passed down through generations.

As consumer preferences evolve, local companies have introduced new techniques and customized offerings.

Yang Jianbo, deputy general manager of a Changde-based company with around 200 shops nationwide, said the enterprise has developed new products with varied forms and flavors, including a do-it-yourself format.

"We provide separate seasoning packets, including cumin, rattan pepper and chili oil," Yang said. "Consumers can mix them according to their preferences."

A distinct culture has formed around the dish in Changde. Visitors can sample duck-based dishes and visit a museum dedicated to the specialty.

In Liling, Zhuzhou, the duck features a deep-red color and a pronounced spicy flavor, and is a popular street food. According to Zhang Chongci, secretary-general of the Liling sauce-braised duck association, preparing one duck takes more than 20 hours, resulting in dry, firm and intensely flavored meat.

To support the industry, the city launched a Sauce-braised Duck Festival in 2023, bringing together companies, investors and consumers. About 10 million ducks were produced in Liling last year, generating 390 million yuan ($57.2 million), Zhang said.

A national-level industrial park for sauce-braised duck is planned in Liling, with shared facilities such as storage, roasting rooms and cold-chain logistics to reduce costs and enable standardized, large-scale production.

Regarding the dish's growing popularity across the Strait, Zhang said the association has launched an initiative offering free servings to Taiwan compatriots — one duck per person presenting valid identification at participating stores.

For Lin Zhongxiang, a Taipei native who runs a business in Chenzhou, the dish is already familiar.

"I fell in love with it decades ago," he said.

"In Taiwan, duck is mostly used in hotpot or soup. Dry, spiced duck like this is rare," he added.

Sauce-braised duck from Linwu in Chenzhou has long been a popular gift choice for his family and friends in Taiwan. "Everyone loves the flavor," he said.

Zhu Youfang in Changsha contributed to this story.

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